Construction & Care
We build all our custom pieces by hand using the best possible materials and to exacting standards. Learn more about our construction, and how to maintain your piece’s beauty and integrity for years to come.
Sofas, Beds, & Chairs
Our frames are made with kiln-dried,* solid wood that provide for exceptionally sturdy, long-lasting furniture pieces. We use Carb 2 compliant engineered wood to further reinforce the hardwood frame on the sides and back of our pieces. This durable material is comprised of layers of laminated hardwood. Our frames are joined with corner blocks, heavy-duty staples and industrial-strength craftsman’s glue. All frames are backed by our 10 year limited frame warranty, applicable to the original owner and original delivery address only.
*The kiln-drying process prevents frame warping and mildew in humid climates. Most of our sofas are designed with a “pitch”. This is a slight angle in the seat and/or back which allows you to comfortably sit back and almost sink into the sofa. The pitch is barely noticeable on a stand alone sofa. It does become slightly more noticeable on a chaise sectional. This is due to the chaise having a much deeper cushion.
The seating of the frame (on which the seat cushions rest) is constructed with sinuous steel springs that are securely fastened and provide long-lasting support and comfort. The back of the frame (on which the back cushions rest) is constructed with synthetic webbing that provides soft and supportive comfort.
All of our seat cushions are constructed with high-quality, high-resiliency foam. On some of our designs, the high-resiliency foam is wrapped in fiber and placed in a channeled casing with a combination of down feathers and dacron. Over time, all foam and filling will soften and conform based on usage. Feather-blend cushions will become softer and will puddle. This is normal and not a defect in construction.
Our cushions are compliant with the TB-117-2013 flammability standard for upholstered furniture, and are free of all flame retardant chemicals. Our cushions pass California Prop 65 for lead, cadmium, and phthalates. We do not use formaldehyde in the production of our foam either.
Since the sofa is wrapped in plastic during the transportation time period, you might experience a slight smell. Once the sofa is unwrapped and allowed to “air-out” the smell will go away after a few days.
When you receive your new sofa, please be aware that the cushions will need some time to adjust. Cushions are made to fit your sofa, and are packed, shipped, and delivered to you before even being sat on. Depending on how often you use your new sofa, it could take a couple weeks to fully allow the cushions to break in and soften up.
Rotating cushions regularly will ensure even wear and prolong the life of your sofa. If the cushions are reversible, you should also flip the cushions along with changing their location. Cushion rotation keeps the casing positioned properly on the cushion core. It also evens out the impact of frictional wear and sun exposure on the fabric. Fluffing cushions regularly will help to restore their loft. It is recommended to rotate, flip, and fluff loose cushions weekly or biweekly, depending on the amount of use the piece receives.
Center leg support
Don’t be alarmed when you inspect your sofa and notice the center leg support does not touch the ground. As a rule of thumb the center leg support, which is located in the middle of the sofa, typically does not touch the ground when no one is on the sofa. It is there for additional support to help even out the weight.
Our sleeper sofa mattress is a queen size (76″ x 60″) and 5.5″ thick. The mechanism is commercial grade construction. The mattress folds into thirds and tucks nicely into the sofa frame with ease.
Here are the layers that make up our sleeper sofa mattress (starting from the bottom up):
- two layers of foam (different densities)
- 13 gauge coil springs (322 springs in total)
- layer of foam
- layer of latex memory foam
- cotton fill (for softness)
- the entire mattress is wrapped in fabric ticking
Why is the memory foam only on the top? Because you really only need a small layer of memory foam to really feel the softness and effect of the foam. Each layer paired with the next gives the mattress its overall structure and comfort.
Upon delivery of your new sleeper sofa, the sleeper mechanism will be secured to the frame with rope so that it doesn’t open during transport. You will need to remove the rope for the sleeper mechanism to properly open and close.
Our fabric assortment includes a variety of natural and synthetic materials. While we select durable and high-quality materials, slight differences in texture, color, or appearance among fabrics (and leathers) may occur between production runs. This is normal, and not considered defective. We work closely with our supply chain partners to insure each production run falls within our approved variance range. Over time exposure to extreme temperature changes and direct sunlight may cause color changes. Fabrics are not guaranteed against wear, fading or shrinking.
General fabric care
Routine vacuuming or light brushing is recommended. Use the upholstery attachment and crevice tool of your vacuum to remove loose particles. We recommend this at least once or twice a month. This will prevent build-up of dust and grime which can damage the fabric over time. Avoid long exposure to direct sunlight, which may cause fading. Tight, attached seat and back cushions will naturally stretch and wrinkle with use. You can easily restore the appearance by smoothing the surface and tucking excess fabric into the sides of the seat or back.
How to spot-clean stains
Blot spills immediately with a clean, absorbent white cloth. Blot from the outside to the middle of the affected area to prevent rings. Spot cleaning can cause a ring or fading. It is best to have the entire piece or cushion casing cleaned by a professional upholstery cleaning service to ensure uniform results. If you decide to spot clean on your own, refer to the spot code below to determine the correct type of product to use. If a type of cleaner is advised, pretest a small, inconspicuous area before proceeding. Do not use too much water or solvent. Rub gently, do not scrub.
- S = SOLVENT — Use a water-free solvent. We recommend a professional upholstery cleaning service as water-free cleaning solvents may not be readily available and/or petroleum-based.
- W = WATER — Use distilled water and a water-based upholstery cleaner. We recommend Eco Touch Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner for an eco-friendly cleaner, or Blue Coral Upholstery Cleaner for a heavy-duty cleaner.
- WS = WATER OR SOLVENT — For these versatile fabrics, you may use a water-free solvent OR distilled water and a water-based upholstery cleaner.
Overall fabric and slipcovers cleaning
For a thorough cleaning, we recommend using a professional in-home upholstery cleaning service. Annual cleaning is suggested, but this can vary depending on usage. If you choose not to use a professional in-home cleaning service you can machine-wash slipcovers with a MW cleaning code. Wash slipcovers in an oversized front-load washer, use cold water and mild detergent.
Close all zippers prior to washing. Always wash the entire slipcover for uniform results. For best results air dry covers until slightly damp to reduce wrinkling. For ease put the slipcover back on when slightly damp and let it finish drying on the piece. Do not line dry as fabric may stretch. Do not store damp slipcovers. As with clothing, some fading is to be expected. Do not dry clean or machine wash cushion casings as it may damage the fabric, backing or stitching.
Pilling is an inherent characteristic of many high quality upholstered fabrics and is not a fabric fault or defect. The small pilling pieces must first be allowed to form before they can be removed, so it is a characteristic that cannot be pro-actively resolved. Pilling is caused by natural fiber migration from the yarns to the fabric surface as the fabric is rubbed. When pilling occurs, there is often a concern that the fabric is disintegrating and will leave a worn out area or not retain the proper structure in the fabric. This is not the case. Pilling will stop once the excess fiber is gone. It is recommended to use a fabric pilling comb or defuzzer to shave off the pills. Rarely does pilling re-occur after utilizing one of these methods.
Natural characteristics in leather
Leather is a natural material. Slight differences in texture, color, or appearance from hide to hide may occur. Leather is particularly subject to variations in color and markings, such as wrinkles, stretch marks, and healed scars may show. In addition, no piece of furniture can be produced from a single hide. These characteristics make leather unique and are not considered defective. Natural color changes, exposure to extreme temperature changes and direct sunlight may cause color changes and/or surface damage. Over time, leather will naturally develop a patina and a softer, more supple feel, adding to its comfort and character.
Our leathers are both pigment- and aniline-dyed for softness, beauty, and durability.
Aniline Dyeing: The word aniline is an industry term for transparent dyes that are used to color hides. This process penetrates the leather, dyeing it with non-toxic transparent dyes, which allows the leather’s natural markings to remain visible. The markings and color shadings in aniline leather distinguishes genuine leather from man-made materials like vinyl. Pigment Dyeing: After aniline dyeing, the outside surface of the leather is coated with a pigmented resin, and then a subsequent clear-coating for durability. These layers of pigment and wax are gently buffed to bring out subtle highlights and lowlights.
General leather care
Minor scratches such as fingernail scratches or light scuffs may cause a slight mark without truly damaging the leather. Start by using a chamois or your fingers to gently buff minor scratches or scuffs on the surface. If the piece is aniline leather, use a low-temperature hair dryer over the leather to warm it up, rubbing the surface with your hand after it’s warmed. Sometimes this is enough to correct minor scuffs and scratches.
Table top construction
Our dining tabletops are constructed of wood veneer (walnut, oak, and ash) stained with natural wax or lacquered finish (white) atop medium density fiberboard (MDF).
MDF is an engineered wood product that does not expand and contract with humidity like solid wood. As a result, it’s an excellent core under veneers, or on its own once painted or powder-coated. MDF is made by applying heat and pressure to adhere wood fibers to each other into a stable panel. Our MDF is compliant with California Air and Resources Board Phase II (CARB-2), which sets the lowest threshold in the world for formaldehyde emissions in engineered wood products.
Our veneers are made by slicing thin sheets from solid wood and applying them over an MDF core. Using veneers adds greater stability while reducing expansion and contraction due to humidity.
Our dining table legs are solid wood (walnut, oak, and ash) or square tubular steel (natural steel, brushed stainless, matte brass, and powder coated white).
Table top care
Dust your tabletop regularly with a soft dry cloth. To remove food debris and dirt, wipe with a damp cloth and then dry. Do not use an abrasive cleaner.
Protect your tabletop from liquids, heat, direct sunlight, and abrasives. Do not leave spills unattended, and use a trivet or surface pad beneath heated dishes. Use a cutting board and coasters to minimize scratches on tabletop. You should also write on a protective pad, especially when using a permanent marker.
Note that wood finishes may still darken with time and exposure to the elements. Maintain wax as needed, using a natural beeswax or paste wax free of paint thinners.
Hardware may loosen with use. Periodically check to make sure all connections are tight.